By Peter Weltman

Trip two was triumphantly underway, and the weather outlook was sunny and warm. As a group, we were determined not to fall victim to our trip one fallacy, which included Sysco sponsored Mexican food in Roscoe, New York and plenty of road side diners. We were ready to eat proper meals on our brigade through New York State.

If trip one was marked by famine, our steadfast dedication created a rebound experience marked by feast—perhaps gluttony. Before we even left for Long Island’s shores, we met brew master extraordinaire Garrett Oliver at his home base in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. After touring his stamping ground, Garrett joined us for pizzas, plates of antipasti, and pints of Sorachi Ace.

Satisfyingly satiated, we bid farewell and made our way to dig for clams in Southampton with fifth generation bayman Ed Warner. His title expresses a broad range of expertise—scalloping and setting conch pots to name a few—so don’t think about calling him a ‘fisherman.’ Effortlessly he rakes in the brackish water of Springs Pond, knowing exactly where to look for his beloved bi-valve.

Later that evening we ventured to the far reaches of Long Island to Greenport Harbor. Here we met Mike Osinski of Widow’s Hole Oyster Company. What does an Oyster farm look like? In this case it exists 500 feet from the shore in Mike’s backyard. This is bottom that Mike annexed upon buying his waterfront home. The sun began to dramatically set over Shelter Island, and Mike offered to host us for dinner—score! Oysters were the star of the meal: shucked minutes from being excavated from the water.

The next morning at 5:00 a.m., we continued our nautical theme by fluke fishing off the coast of Amagansett with two colorful baymen—Billy and Danny. Watching them fish using a Native American pound trap technique was captivating: large wooden leader poles direct retreating fluke into a set of netted traps. Here the fish swim around until the two men scoop them into their boat. These traps were filled with 10,000 pounds of fluke and local porgies, making for a bountiful catch. The morning was cool and we soaked in the salty sea air. Ah, good morning Long Island!

Feeling invigorated, our troop had a three hour drive back through the City and up-state to the Hudson Valley. Now, the dining precedent had been set—what would be our next indulgence? Determining that a minor detour would take us to New Jersey, Chef Daniel invited us to his abode. What resulted on the table was a restaurant worthy spread: insalta caprese with beautiful heirloom tomatoes and hand pulled mozzarella, rustic salami and soppressata, prosciutto, and loaves of crusty baguette. The setting was beautiful, and even more so when wine was pulled: 1999 Dom Perignon and 1998 Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso ca’ del Merlo. The evening ended at Sycamore Farms grilling their fresh picked corn and local red onions.

As the adventure continues, we are truly amassing a worthy collection of New York State products while meeting the passionate practioners who grow/catch/create/cook them. Necessarily, we seek inspiration everywhere to collect great stories and capture beautiful light. We even go to work for the sake of shot. Bryce and I simultaneously harvested berries and weeded along side Franca Tantillo—bringing Francesco’s perfect image into fruition. Occasionally, we are also humbled by the sheer force of nature—reminded upon coming face-to-face with Mr. Right, the 2,700 lbs. bull at Rosenkrans beef farm.

I speak for myself (although I believe my colleagues will agree), that this year I have never been more in-tune with seasonality and the weather elements that affect it. We are farming along side our subjects, although our harvest is fulfilled in the form of their stories.

Ready for Trip #3!

By Peter Weltman

Provenance can only be understood through feeling, seeing, touching, eating, and experiencing.  That is why we piled a photographer (Francesco), Eleven Madison Park sous chef (Bryce), and a writer (me) into a shiny Audi eager to meet New York State farmers, taste their fantastic products, all the while cultivating stories.  Eventually, we hope to use this content threaded together for an experience that speaks to a sense of place—our home, New York.  With the first trip now over, there are behind the scene moments that occurred with our group immersing into the pastoral life.

Leave it to three people who meticulously prepare for their respected practices to not consider the obvious. Upon arriving to Bodhi Tree, our very first farm, there was a collective “oh shit” gulp when we saw the muddy conditions.  After heavy rain the two weeks prior, everybody neglected to pack proper footwear! Graciously, owner Nevia No supplied us with proper rubber boots to borrow for the remainder of our trip.

There were always early starts: 4:30 A.M at Homarus Lobster, 6:30 A.M. pig slaughter with the team at Four Story Hill, and 6:00 A.M wake-up for beautiful morning light on the storybook hill at Sheep Meadow Lamb farm.  Sure there were tasty nibbles along the way including pungent micro greens at Blue Moon Acres, baby pine needles with Mountain Sweet Berry’s Rick Bishop, and hedonistic chocolate milk at Battenkill Farm.  Let’s face it; these flavorful accents were not going to fuel three grown men on a mission.

We thought the road to each farm was going to be paved with quaint establishments serving food grown by thy neighbors.  Horrible mistaken, more often than not we ate at road side diners—sometimes people were nice, other times they were not—with our lowest grade meal including un-authentic Mexican fare.  Although some stops rewarded us with small town charm, bottles of wine and cured meats have made our future packing lists.

Feeling deprived, all was reconciled at Paisley Farm in Tivoli, New York.  After joining owner Michael Kokas on a wild nettle forage through the woods, we convened on his back deck.  Awaiting our return was the meal we’d been seeking: local salad greens, cheeses, beautiful quiches, and a Hudson Valley Foie Gras tourchon.  This was our last stop and we ate every morsel, reveling under a veil of beautiful light from the evening sun’s glow.  Oh yeah, it had finally stopped raining.

Weekends call for delicious, home cooking, sometimes with the involvement of even the smallest hands in the Tonelli household.

The kitchen resembles an elementary school arts and crafts class, even though real-time cooking with Dad is a lot more fun. Tiny fingers pinch flour and eggs in an enormous well, then knead and roll the dough for Agnolotti – an art not unlike mastering Play-Doh when you are 7- or 9-years old.  Pliable and brilliant in color the dough and filling are fun, just like art class, but much tastier to eat. Next, picture perfect pasta sheets get layered into handmade lasagnas or spotted with seasoned braised meat and spinach filling before folding, cooking and finishing to enjoy around the table together – the way a perfect Sunday dinner should be.

What happens when a four-star chef spends a day in-studio on a photo shoot? – Strong chance that the food will manage to find its way from the set to your mouth, and that the day will turn out to be one to savor.

It was Daniel Humm, Executive Chef of Eleven Madison Park in NYC, and Sous Chef, Bryce Shuman, who brought the very best of NY produce and the inspiration to shoot it.  The tables were turned, however, as I, a former chef, found myself cooking for perhaps the single most visible chef in Manhattan and one of his right-hand men — caught somewhere between a photographic set and my humble kitchen.

The day started with freshly baked pastries and hand-squeezed citrus juice — something that has become a pleasant habit with us as we work to complete the ultimate Eleven Madison Park Cookbook and launch new projects together.

Snack breaks came in the form of slices of Toscano (bread that is formulated and baked with low salt to exalt the flavors of the foods it is eaten with), topped with the new harvest extra virgin from Azienda Agraria Viola shipped directly from my dear friend, Enea Barbanera, a renowned chef in Umbria, plus bitter chocolate from Mast Brothers in Brooklyn and fleur de sel.  It was a brilliant pairing of flavors, thanks to Daniel’s inspiration and prime resources such as those found at Eataly, NYC.

As the photo shoot progressed, we popped open a bottle of Italian Spumante and indulged in delicious raw oysters from Widows Hole in Greenport Harbor, directly off the set and freshly shucked by Bryce.

At that point, the day was flying at full tilt. Ingredients were moving on and off the set as fast as our ideas, with one shot more dynamic than the next, and before too long it was time to sit down to the lunch that I had prepared.

The meal began with Bresaola drizzled with young extra virgin, a few drops of lemon juice and freshly cracked pepper, topped with a salad of raw baby artichokes, sliced paper-thin, frisée and shaved Grana Padano. That, and a glass of fresh Vermentino Argiolas from Costamolino gave me just enough time to finish the pasta. I served a rigatoni from pasta maker Rummo, cooked al dente and garnished with rendered artisanal Pancetta, sweet, slowly caramelized onions, hot chili peppers, and shaved Pecorino Canestrato. Espresso and freshly baked Swedish Oatmeal Cookies, ended the session with a delicate sweetness and a nod to acclaimed pastry chef and dear friend, Dieter Schorner.

I have to say that nothing compares to the experience of shooting on location at Eleven Madison Park: the brilliant concepts and expert handiwork of Daniel and his army of sous and pastry chefs always seem to flow effortlessly between my photo set and my grateful palate. But it was refreshing to switch roles and even wear two hats for a change. And perhaps even more than that, I believe it was what was at the heart of the day – the reward of sharing your best food with great friends who appreciate each bite for the quality and good intentions behind them – that made it so special.

With new and exciting projects on the horizon, I have a feeling the “full-immersion photo shoot” might soon become our new protocol.