Archive for the ‘Fish’ Category

Beyond the Photo Shoot

Posted on March 24th, 2011 by Francesco Tonelli  |  No Comments »

What happens when a four-star chef spends a day in-studio on a photo shoot? – Strong chance that the food will manage to find its way from the set to your mouth, and that the day will turn out to be one to savor.

It was Daniel Humm, Executive Chef of Eleven Madison Park in NYC, and Sous Chef, Bryce Shuman, who brought the very best of NY produce and the inspiration to shoot it.  The tables were turned, however, as I, a former chef, found myself cooking for perhaps the single most visible chef in Manhattan and one of his right-hand men — caught somewhere between a photographic set and my humble kitchen.

The day started with freshly baked pastries and hand-squeezed citrus juice — something that has become a pleasant habit with us as we work to complete the ultimate Eleven Madison Park Cookbook and launch new projects together.

Snack breaks came in the form of slices of Toscano (bread that is formulated and baked with low salt to exalt the flavors of the foods it is eaten with), topped with the new harvest extra virgin from Azienda Agraria Viola shipped directly from my dear friend, Enea Barbanera, a renowned chef in Umbria, plus bitter chocolate from Mast Brothers in Brooklyn and fleur de sel.  It was a brilliant pairing of flavors, thanks to Daniel’s inspiration and prime resources such as those found at Eataly, NYC.

As the photo shoot progressed, we popped open a bottle of Italian Spumante and indulged in delicious raw oysters from Widows Hole in Greenport Harbor, directly off the set and freshly shucked by Bryce.

At that point, the day was flying at full tilt. Ingredients were moving on and off the set as fast as our ideas, with one shot more dynamic than the next, and before too long it was time to sit down to the lunch that I had prepared.

The meal began with Bresaola drizzled with young extra virgin, a few drops of lemon juice and freshly cracked pepper, topped with a salad of raw baby artichokes, sliced paper-thin, frisée and shaved Grana Padano. That, and a glass of fresh Vermentino Argiolas from Costamolino gave me just enough time to finish the pasta. I served a rigatoni from pasta maker Rummo, cooked al dente and garnished with rendered artisanal Pancetta, sweet, slowly caramelized onions, hot chili peppers, and shaved Pecorino Canestrato. Espresso and freshly baked Swedish Oatmeal Cookies, ended the session with a delicate sweetness and a nod to acclaimed pastry chef and dear friend, Dieter Schorner.

I have to say that nothing compares to the experience of shooting on location at Eleven Madison Park: the brilliant concepts and expert handiwork of Daniel and his army of sous and pastry chefs always seem to flow effortlessly between my photo set and my grateful palate. But it was refreshing to switch roles and even wear two hats for a change. And perhaps even more than that, I believe it was what was at the heart of the day – the reward of sharing your best food with great friends who appreciate each bite for the quality and good intentions behind them – that made it so special.

With new and exciting projects on the horizon, I have a feeling the “full-immersion photo shoot” might soon become our new protocol.

Eleven Madison Park Cookbook – Summer Session Completed

Posted on October 5th, 2010 by Francesco Tonelli  |  No Comments »

eleven madison park - seabass

Oranges + Extra Virgin = Very Good

Posted on March 8th, 2010 by Francesco Tonelli  |  3 Comments »

Sliced blood orange salad with crab meat

I absolutely love the taste of oranges in-season, prepared with sea salt and a good extra virgin olive oil. They can be combined in a bowl, by simply swirling them around which creates a natural vinaigrette of emulsified juices, salt and oil. Delicious!

This easy preparation works as an appetizer, a juicy side (to a grilled fish for example) or as a main dish in a composed, healthy salad.

They are perfect alone, but also offer a fantastic base upon which you can build more complex flavors and textures.

Just a few ideas for great add-ons or add-ins are:

• Sliced red onions or scallions

• Black olives (one of my favorite varieties is Taggiasche from the Liguria region of Italy)

• Sliced fennel and fennel leaves

• Baby arugula or baby spinach

• Steamed crustacean such as shrimp, lobster or crab

Sometimes it’s just that simple and so good for you too.